Today’s post follows on from Monday’s (incredibly popular, thank you) Part 1, as seen here.
Seeing our new 2800mm salvaged hoop pine in the flesh is rather cool. It’s gigantic in size and will soon fit 10-12 people comfortably for a meal. Luckily we have already carefully planned the space using tape, otherwise I would be doubting it could be too big (for our now lil family of 2, plus our dogs and pony of course).
Our first aesthetic enhancement is to give the illusion of a thicker slab of timber to fit with the chunky legs. Instead of scrapping the top we already have, we simply add a border of pine. From the side it should look like one big slab, minus the weight.
As this top was already painted and sealed, we use a belt sander to evenly remove the paint from the sides.
The Ullis 10mm pine is cut at nice 45 degree angles in each corner known as a mitre join, to allow each side to butt nicely in. Hint: Make sure the pine you’re using as a ‘thickener’ isn’t too wide, as we still need to allow 1050mm to later fasten our top rail to attach the legs. In other words, it needs needs to sit close to the edge but inside the trim.
Piece-by-piece, each side is glued, clamped into position, pre-drilled, counter sunk, and fixed using 50mm wood screws. We pretty cruisy with this part as it’s an identical process to fastening our vertical legs.
Our timber has shrunken ever so slightly at the two ends, known as the ‘bread board’. It’s the horizontal piece of timber you can see above that’s been glued to each end of the vertical timber pieces. It acts as stability and ensures the table doesn’t ‘cup’. To stop cupping you could also build your table top with a frame right around the edge known as an apron, or brace the underneath.
However to overcome our bread board shrinkage (which Brain was very surprised had occurred in the first place), we’re sanding back each long side to sit flush the whole length. Oh, another illusion perhaps?
As you can see above, there is a line between the white existing hoop pine and the thickening pine we just added. We could simply apply some wood putty and paint and hope for the best.
Brian’s advice is you will be able to see this line no matter how much elbow grease we put in. So instead, we decide to use a router piece and groove out this line and make a feature of it.
He has a million-and-one pieces here to choose from, but unfortunately not what we were looking for…
So we make do with this router piece here, and carefully drag it along the edge at the exact height of the line.
Our bread board ends exposed the dowl joins with what I felt looked like rustic buttons or bolts once painted. Unfortunatley the router bit didn’t fit over the ‘buttons’ so we sanded them off to access the join and create a smooth finish. We’re all about perfection in the details here DIYers.
Never fear though, Brian (ever so kindly) insisted on using the drill spade head and created all new buttons for me. Purely an aesthetic detail however one I know will make all the difference when sitting down to a glass of red with friends.
Stay tuned for ‘how to make a dining table: Part 3’ (but it’s gonna be sometime next week, sorry).