I’m pretty chuffed with the end result. After months of Nikki trolling second hand demolition shops and calling to say, “Babe, I think I like this door. It’s water damaged, loosing half the glass and it’s only $250.” Geez, there was no way I was gonna spend that much money on a bloody chicken coop door, so we set off to make our own, which is code for me to whip something worthy of Nikki’s (high) expectations. Here goes…
The bottom half
To start with I bought a sheet of form ply 1200mm x 1800mm (as this was cheaper than the larger size). This gives a solid base which is quite good in the weather and shouldn’t bow or twist too much. All cudos goes to Nikki’s horse farrier for the idea – thanks Paul! The opening I made in the chook house was just shy of 900mm wide which made this size sheet perfect. Firstly I cut the sheet about 890mm x 1200mm.
Now to turn this sheet of ply into a barn style door we need to jazz it up a bit. So I cut a border using some left over treated pine fence palings I had in the shed (from our House 1 February 2014 renos for new perimeter fencing in fact). *Never throw left overs and offcuts away!
Now it was time to measure and cut our cross pieces… I find it easier at times just to put the piece of timber cut a bit long and mark in pencil my cut lines in place.
And once they are all cut to size its time you just glue and screw the pine palings in place – easy peasy!!
The top half
Now for the top half of the barn door, this is a little more fidely. So firstly I cut my piece of ply to size. (This was the left over from the other door).
Next, I pre-cut my border palings and marked them on the sheet of ply. Note that I want the palings to step in past the sheet of ply and behind like a big picture frame, in this case I made it an even 20mm.
Now it’s time to cut out the centre of the ply, a neat little trick us tradies use to get a nice straight cut on the circular saw is to clamp a straight edge or level to the sheet and use this as a guide.
To finish the corners just use a hand saw or if you have one a jigsaw makes it a little easier.
You can finish cutting your border now and glue and screw together.
Below you can see the start of the design Nikki just HAD to have. I bought a length of 31mm x 11mm pine moulding for this as I thought it would be a good size. To get the diamond points I measured to the centre of each side and made the joins.
To finish the design I made a big cross from corner to corner and screwed it all together into the palings from the backside of the door, note it will be all unseen from the front of the door.
I bought gate hinges from Bunnings warehouse to use for the doors as I thought they would be nice and strong and look the part as well. I fixed these at the top and bottom of both doors in centre of the horizontal borders.
Looking good, ha!
Just a quick tip when painting fidly bits like the diamond area, use a spray can or hire a air paint sprayer when painting large areas as it saves a lot of time and eliminates all the drips. (Damn this can was empty).
And BAM!!!! They come up a real treat when they are all painted.
Cost ($ AUD)
|Form ply 1200mm x 1800mm||Bunnings||$68.00|
|Nails and screws||From my trailer||$0.00|
|Gate hinges x2 sets||Bunnings||$20.00|
|Pine moulding 31mm x 11mm||Bunnings||$10.00|
|Paint – undercoat (left over form chicken coop)||Bunnings||$0.00|
So tell me DIYers, do you think the diamonds came up ok?
Since writing this post we’ve created a step-by-step downloadable barn door plan which can be purchased from our online shop for $6.99.